BELTRANI LANFRANCO

From the cellars of Serra de' Conti, in the Ancona area, Lanfranco Beltrani oversees four `DOCG` denominations: a rare concentration among Marche producers, who typically work with a narrower range. His portfolio spans the entire spectrum of regional expression. There is `Vernaccia di Serrapetrona`, from black grapes, in sparkling and red versions; there is `Cònero`, a structured red based on `Montepulciano` and `Sangiovese`, aged for at least twenty-four months; and there are two `Verdicchio` riserva wines, from Matelica and Castelli di Jesi, each aged in bottle for no less than eighteen months. This breadth is not accumulation, but mastery of different registers: white and red, still and sparkling, immediate fruit and long aging. Behind the four labels lies a control of the terroir that extends, depending on the denomination, from seven to nineteen municipalities, a mosaic that Beltrani coherently holds together. What emerges is the figure of a guardian of Marche's oenological dignity, capable of defending both the region's white and red production on multiple fronts.

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